The mortar joints between bricks. Lime mortar required on most listed and conservation jobs.
Pointing is the finished mortar joint in a brick or stone wall. Repointing is raking out and replacing failed joints. On a solid-wall London house the mortar must be weaker than the brick — normally lime — so that moisture evaporates through the joint rather than through the brick face.
A cement mortar is harder and less permeable than a soft handmade London stock brick. Water that enters the wall then has to leave through the brick rather than through the joint, and in a frost it spalls the brick face. The damage is irreversible: a spalled brick has lost its fired outer skin.
The rule of thumb is that the mortar should always be the sacrificial element. Joints are meant to fail and be replaced; bricks are not.
For most Victorian and Georgian London brickwork, a natural hydraulic lime at NHL 2 or NHL 3.5, mixed around 1:2.5 with a well-graded sharp sand matched to the original in colour and grading. The profile should match what is there — usually flush or slightly recessed. Weatherstruck and, worse, proud 'ribbon' pointing traps water and is a conservation officer's red flag.
On an unlisted house outside a conservation area, no. On a listed building, repointing affects character and normally needs listed building consent. In a conservation area it is usually permitted, but an Article 4 direction can catch it, and a materials condition on a recent permission may specify the mix.
A worked Southwark example of pointing and repointing: with 43 conservation areas — the Camberwell Grove Conservation Area and the Bermondsey Street Conservation Area among the best known — London Borough of Southwark (Southwark Council) sees pointing and repointing constantly, and an Article 4 direction is in force there, so permitted development cannot be assumed. Where pointing and repointing pushes a Southwark scheme out of permitted development, the route becomes a £548 application decided in 8 weeks rather than a £249 prior approval in 6 weeks.
| Historic mortar | NHL 2 or NHL 3.5 lime |
|---|---|
| Typical mix | 1:2.5 lime to sharp sand |
| Correct profile | Flush or slightly recessed |
| Avoid | Cement mortar, weatherstruck and ribbon pointing |
| Raking depth | Twice the joint width, minimum |
| Listed building | Listed building consent normally required |
On a modern cavity wall, yes. On soft historic brick it causes spalling and should be avoided.
At least twice the joint width, to give the new mortar a key.
On a listed building, normally yes. Elsewhere usually not.



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